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For centuries: how stones are fixed in jewelry

In precious jewelry there are no trifles. Starting from the choice of metal, the method of manufacturing the product, its design, the choice of fastener – each stage of the process is most significant for obtaining the perfect result in the final. One of these critical phases is the insertion of a stone into a ring, pendant, bracelet or earring. Not only the appearance of the resulting jewelry depends on the skill of the jeweler, his skill and imagination, but also his durability and comfort in wearing.

Fixing jewelry stones: how it happens
They say that there are no comrades for the taste and color. It’s hard to disagree with this: someone likes a thin gold rim, and someone gives a massive ring in which one large and several small diamonds flaunts. But nevertheless, according to the observations of experts of the online jewelry store, it is jewelry that is inlaid with gems that are most popular. So that the stones reliably “sit” in their nests and at the same time shine with all their beauty, the so-called stone fixing is used in jewelry making – that is, the process by which the stones are fixed in the precious metal and do not fall out of it. There are quite a few varieties of this process. Three main parameters depend on the choice of a particular method:

product appearance;
reliability of fastening;
ease of operation.
The more complicated the process of inlaid, the higher the price of the product. There are techniques that are more suitable for everyday jewelry (where the choice between spectacular appearance and reliability is in favor of the latter). But there are others – they do not provide the most reliable fixation, but at the same time they are able to reveal absolutely all the beauty of a precious mineral.

Portrait of a fixer
Although automation is being given more and more space in our lives, alas, the process of fixing stones is done only manually. At least, most inserts are fixed that way – with the hands of jewelers, under a microscope, using special tools. The fact is that fastening is such a delicate process that relying entirely on automation in this case would be extremely reckless. Manual labor is considered much more reliable than conventional machining. But this is not enough. Not every manual labor will do. This work is so painstaking and serious that a broad-profile jeweler is not trusted. There is a special profession called stone fixer. You can study it by graduating from a special educational institution or by completing an internship at a jewelry factory. The work of the fixer is very serious and responsible. The person who takes up the case must meet a number of criteria.

The master must be very physically strong, because the process of encrustation involves serious efforts.
At the same time, he must be diligent, since this work requires silence and unhurriedness.
In addition, any movement of a specialist must be very accurate, accurate, because there are no trifles in this process.
Finally, the master must have the intuition and experience to find a middle ground: on the one hand, securely fix the stone in the frame, and on the other hand, “not transmit” in order to avoid deformation and split of the gem.

What determines the choice of fixing method

Knowing all kinds of stone fastening, the master decides which method to use in each particular case. This decision is made at the very first conceptual design stages. We can say that it is the most important in the process of fixing gems. After analyzing all the factors, the master is determined in favor of a particular method. What factors are we talking about? This is first of all:

type of gem (precious, semiprecious or other);
physical indicators of the mineral (primarily hardness and brittleness);
stone size;
features of the cut gem;
future decoration design:
number and location of inserts;
the color of the metal “frame”;
color saturation and / or transparency of the stone;
the presence and nature of defects;
practicality of fastening.
Actually, the most important task of a jeweler is to work with a precious mineral so that it is both securely fixed and at the same time has a spectacular appearance. It is the need to achieve this harmony that lies the main challenge for the fixer.

But remember: it’s not very important for the buyer what types of stone fixings could be in a particular jewelry and which one the master chose. Quality work is the main criterion. And believe me, an experienced master is able to perform at the highest level even the most “unreliable” fastening. Therefore, when buying jewelry, pay special attention to the quality of the inlay. There are no compromises: there should not be a single mounting defect. Well, if you have the slightest doubt – do not hesitate, go to a jeweler. Otherwise, the risk of losing a stone increases significantly.

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